Day 3 on the Trace

Where does the time go?  I can't believe it's been almost three weeks since I wrote about Day 1 and Day 2 on the Trace.  Before I write about Day 3, I have to tell about 'our' Best Western in Jackson, Mississippi.  First, it was gated.  The hotel desk clerk told us it was to keep people from parking there during events at the Mississippi Coliseum (many blocks away with its own huge parking lot).  So, we weren't born yesterday.  We knew why it was gated.  Our suspicions were confirmed as we drove through el barrio to get to an amazing Mexican restaurant, recommended by the hotel clerk.  The food and the atmosphere at La Cazuela were a pleasant surprise.  If you're ever in Jackson, Mississippi, go there.  It's definitely worth the risk of driving through 'the hood'.

A crazy rainstorm broke out that evening and we were glad to be back in our securely gated hotel - although the gate couldn't protect us from everything.  The phone unexpectedly rang.  Howard picked it up, listened, walked over to the window, and let out a shocked, "Whoooooaaa, yes!"  The flooded parking lot had decided to invade our room.  Instead of building an ark, we got an upgrade to 'the suite'.  In a few seconds the hotel guys were at our door, apologizing profusely while loading up our stuff to whisk us off to the suite - a few doors away.  I guess their idea of a suite is more of the same only bigger, minus the indoor swimming hole.  Although, in the corner of the bedroom there was a jacuzzi tub thing that was surrounded by full-length mirrors and fake plants.  Eeeww!

Okay, Day 3.  There were no swamps or beaver dams - just a sunken part of the trace and an historic house.

41.5 Sunken Trace
Our guide mentioned that it only takes five minutes to visit Sunken Trace, "but if you linger a little longer you may sense the spirit of those who trod here before you".  I don't know if that was an invitation or a warning.

So, here's what happens when you mix hooves and feet with a couple of centuries.  The path just keeps getting lower and lower - you know, it sinks.  You can see why it was so easy for ambushers to target unsuspecting travelers back in the day.

Here's a different perspective on Sunken Trace.

This picture is to remind you what the Trace looks like between each stop.

30.0  Windsor Ruins
I'm kicking 'ourselves' for not visiting this site.  It was off the beaten path and we were running out of time.  Here's what we missed.

 

[not the primary source]

This antebellum* mansion sat on one of the largest plantations in the area - 2,600 acres!  During the Civil War, the Union used the mansion as an observation post and a hospital.  It's crazy to think that the mansion survived the Civil War, but succumbed to a guest's unattended cigar that burned everything but what is seen in the photo.  If the cigar smoker survived the fire, I'm pretty sure that he didn't get invited to any more parties after that unfortunate mishap!

[source]

Here's the map of the loop that takes you off the Trace to visit the ruins.  Note to self:  When you're that close to something while traveling, just go see it.  Don't say, "We'll see it next time."  There might not be a next time.

15.5 Mount Locust

The unappealing name doesn't conjure up images of a quaint and primitive hostelry.  The building, dating back to 1780, is one of the oldest buildings in Mississippi, and it's the only hostelry of 50 that still remains.  It's reported that Andrew Jackson stayed there twice.  I wonder if he stayed in the family's home or if he stayed in Sleepy Hollow, the outbuilding that housed travelers.  The four-room, two-story building that contained wall-to-wall corn shuck mattresses is no longer there.

I love these interior shots of the house.  The light is amazing.  (Did I mention that Howard took all these photos?)  Oh, and after we got home, Howard found another Nevada Barr murder mystery, Hunting Season, that takes place at Mount Locust.  We definitely have to go back just so we can listen to it while driving the Trace.

0.0 The Beginning (The End, for us)

Okay, this isn't a real mile marker.  But this sign marks the beginning of the 444-mile journey on the Trace.  I highly recommend it!  But, don't try to do it all in one day.

*I'd never heard the word 'antebellum' until moving to the south.  It means 'before the war', but it refers specifically to the period in US history before the Civil War and after the War of 1812, the years 1815-1861.